In the sensory overload of Tokyo, my visit to Daichi Temple moved me the most.
On the outside it appears to be another Japanese temple, where locals throw in coin offerings before summoning the deities with two rings of a bell. Beneath, it hides three underground passageways that envelop you in complete darkness. A total sensory deprivation, a darkness so deep that you can’t see where you’re stepping or even your hand waving right in front of you.
I was surprised how the darkness brought so much emotion to light, particularly in the second passageway that felt longer and more trying than the first. While I was aware that I would be shrouded in complete darkness, I wasn’t prepared for how scary, disorienting, and emotional my experience would be. I looked out onto pitch black nothingness, my mind attempting to project visuals and latch onto SOMETHING, fear filling me as I waded through uncertainty. I slowed my pace to a walking meditation to breathe through and be present with the fear arising.
Once I reached the light of the spirit statues I broke out in tears. My mind wanted to analyze the symbolism and the meaning of passing through darkness into light, the symbolism of the experience I was having, the reason behind why I might be crying. I nudged myself to stay present in the experience and analyze later. I maintained that slow meditative pace through the remainder of the experience, taking in the light, dark, and the emotions each area pinched out of me.
Later in the trip, I revisited the essay In Praise of Shadows. In an oversimplified summary, Tanezaki maintains that western architectural style marked by illuminating light and clarity is overtaking Japanese design signified by its use of darkness and shadows. He argues that there is solitude, beauty, and nuance contained within the mystery of the opaque, and Japanese society shouldn’t be so quick to adapt western styles and abandon the aesthetic and the culture they’ve created embracing the shadows.
Shadows are the interplay between light against dark, and do not glorify either. And that was the experience I had in the passageways: the darkness allowing me to connect with parts of myself I often reject, the lightness comforting me and reminding me I’m not alone.
Toybox: Japan Edition 🗾
There is no right or wrong way to explore Japan. To Tokyo first timers, pick a different neighborhood to explore, save a few pins, and then just let yourself wander. Constantly glancing at Google Maps to “optimize” routes dulls the ability to be present If you’re just sticking around Tokyo don’t bother with the JR Rail Pass. If you’re going to do even one lil side trip out to Kyoto you’ll likely break even.
Here were some gems that stood out:
🍷 🔈 Shibuya: Fulgen for coffee and excellent cocktails, Lion Café for a delicious speaker experience (no talking!), Don Quixote for snacks + souvenirs, Pitou in Shinjuku Golden Gai for Japanese natural wines
🛍🌃Shinjuku/Harajuku: Shinjuku Municipal Building, Meiji Jingu, Kindal and Chicago are great consignment/thrift starting points
🧘♀️🏞Setagaya: Daichi Temple (duh), Kineta Park
🎨 Museums I loved:
I found out about the Grubb Museum Pass, a well kept Tokyo secret, AFTER I came home
TeamLabs
Nezu Museum
21_21 Design Museum
Studio Ghibli Museum (tickets drop on the 10th of every month for the next month and sadly I didn’t make it in this time)
That’s it for this edition, take care until the next.
XOXO JZ